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THE ART OF BESPOKE JEANS

RAW DENIM FOR PURISTS

The word DENIM is thought to have been derived from ‘Serge de Nimes’. Nimes is a town in the south of France which was an important textile region in the 18th Century, famous for producing Serge- woollen fabrics made with twill weave. Denim is an abbreviation for “de Nimes” -meaning from Nimes.

Denim is a sturdy cotton twill fabric characterised by its 3 x 1 warp-faced weaves. In this weave the weft passes under two warp yarns producing the iconic diagonal ribbing on the reverse of the fabric.

Selvedge denim, is widely considered the most exclusive and premium denim fabric available. It is woven on a traditional shuttle loom, this method produces a tightly-bound, finished self-edging (this means that it will not fray or ravel). The selvedge is usually white and often features coloured thread on the border. This is most often seen on the rolled-up cuffs of jeans. A feature that denim geeks will appreciate as a sign of superior quality.

This traditional weaving method is far more labour intensive and expensive and only a handful of mills remain true to this; favouring quality over mass production. Jeans produced in this technique are incomparable in look and feel. The purest form of denim: Raw Denim is that which is unwashed and untreated.  Over time, with wear the denim fades and softens, taking on a worn–in look.

There are a few Specialist Denim mills with the best producers of denim located in Italy, Japan and the USA. Candiani in Milan are considered the creators of original heritage denim. Blue Selvedge use original looms handled by skilled artisans. The Kuroki mill in Japan uses soft local water from Okayama which is suited to denim indigo dye and produces a beautiful clear blue colour; reminiscent of the sky after a heavy storm.

Indigo is the natural pigment used for dying yarn used for denim- resulting in the deep blue colour we know so well. The dye bath starts out with a white green colour but turns blue when the fabric is exposed to oxygen. The more dips in the dye= the deeper the colour becomes. This will fade over time.

The search for the perfect pair of jeans may well be over as Custom jeans have arrived at Clements and Church for Spring Summer 2018. Using only the best raw selvedge denim from around the globe in both rigid and stretch fabrics; these jeans are available in beautiful shades of indigo blue, white and black.

A great pair of jeans are an essential ingredient in any man’s wardrobe and as with tailoring, so much is about the fit. To ensure the ideal style for the individual; measurements are taken in raw denim. Choices are made at the fitting stage about slim or regular fit, in stretch or rigid fabric as well as preferences on button or zip fly.

Finally, the sartorial differences with custom jeans are in the finer details – lined back pockets, narrow seams, additional coin and ticket pockets, hidden rivets and personalised details such as Contrast Yarns, including traditional dark tobacco, grey or sand and Monogrammed coin pockets.

To Care for CUSTOM DENIM: To Keep original shape and colour only wash if needed, if so:  Wash in cold water inside out. Dry flat and away from sunlight. Do Not tumble dry. 

 

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