FROM LONDON TO FLORENCE
THE DAPPER CHAPPER SEEKS SARTORIALS AT PITTI UOMO
January saw the start of four days of shows, presentations and events for London Fashion Week Men’s AW17, formerly known as LC:M. This season, however, the mood seemed to change in London.
With some exceptions, a relatively underwhelming line-up of brands was announced by the British Fashion Council, which included the expected omissions of British super-brands like Burberry, Alexander McQueen and Paul Smith.
But worse than that, especially for our blog The Dapper Chapper, Chester Barrie was the only brand representing Savile Row, and other staples like Alfred Dunhill, Thomas Pink and Oliver Sweeney decided not to bother this season.
Perhaps most worryingly, the young tailoring brands that are actually making waves in the U.K, and which we’ve been shouting about, also decided precious budgets are best spent elsewhere. Clements and Church, who we covered more than any other tailoring brand in 2016 along with the forward thinking Joshua Kane, chose not to be involved.
For me, artistic expressions and whacky urban menswear were too dominant this year. As GQ explained in one of their Instagram videos: the theatrical, outlandish creations are there to help young designers get noticed, and we should think about it more as wearable art and not take it too seriously. What I'm saying is that there needs to be a balance: these brands will only get a credible environment to showcase their art if our established brands are willing to invest in order to showcase the wearable stuff.
Our sartorial appetite was left unfulfilled, so what did we do? We went to Italy.
The week after LFWM we made our Dapper Chapper debut at Pitti Uomo, the biggest menswear and accessories trade event in the world hosted in the Fortezza da Basso, Florence.
Pitti Uomo 91 sees the gathering of thousands of industry professionals treated to a feast of new collections, great design and food & drink, all surrounded by the beauty of Florence.
Our expectations were met immediately. It didn’t take long to realise that the gentlemen in Florence were, quite simply, operating on an entirely different level to what’s been seen before. The crucial details, from how to accessorise to how to wear garments, were executed flawlessly and left us feeling inspired upon our return.
As you’d expect, one big element of the week is street styling, particularly in front of the iconic Pitti Wall.
Our mission over the week was to capture the impressive Clements and Church tailoring in the beautiful setting of Florence, and here’s a peak of what we captured.
Our parting tip for anyone going in the summer: if you’re looking for a place to let your hair down, head over Cafe Gilli for their world famous Bellini’s.