A TASTE OF MODERN BRITISH
THE MICHELIN-STAR CARTERS
A SHORT WALK FROM SOUTH BIRMINGHAM’S BUSTLING AND BOHEMIAN MOSELEY VILLAGE, Carter's opened in 2010 and has held a Michelin star since 2015, and for good reason. The menu is a showcase of Britain’s best seasonal produce. We know its going to be a fantastic journey. We start with snacks, the best of which is oyster cooked in beef fat. It tastes of both land and sea and is sumptuous. We wolf it down with wonderful bread, spread copiously with pig butter.
The main event begins with mackerel: light and delicate thanks to the dashi broth. We move onto Orkney scallop with Exmoor caviar and black garlic – fresh and light, yet creamy and complex. Next up is blonde ray served with potatoes and sea truffle, with Evesham tomatoes bathed in a smoked curd and garnished with back fat from a local producer. It’s an ever-changing landscape of flavour that begins with salty and moves onto creamy and then sweet. Paired with an incredible chardonnay from Jura, the ray is the best dish so far.
However, this victory is short-lived as out comes the star of the show – Cornish smoked lamb served with English peas and garnished with Manjimup truffle, which has travelled from Western Australia to Moseley in under 48 hours to guarantee freshness. The cheese course stars a
Maid-of-Ale malt loaf bathed in beer wort. It’s creamy, then sweet – the signature of the entire meal – and has been paired with a meadowsweet beer created by chef Brad Carter in collaboration with the local Burning Soul brewery. The beer’s sensational and outshines the cheese. I don’t mind.
The standout dessert is fig leaf with Lichfield raspberries and fermented rice. The delicate nutty-fruity flavour of the leaves reminds me of coconut, and is counterbalanced by the sharpness of the raspberry. Paired with Junmai Sake, it’s a very satisfying way to round off the meal.
Overall the experience at Carters is smooth and well-seasoned. The menu is varied and ever-changing, using the best ingredients that Britain has to offer. For me that’s what a being a great independent eatery is all about.
PRICE ££££ RATING 4.5 / 5
Photography: Jack Spicer Adams
CARTERS OF MOSELEY 2c Wake Green Road, Moseley, Birmingham B13 9EZ 0121 449 8885